The Annapurna Base Camp trek is the Nepal walk most travellers actually finish. About 32,000 foreign trekkers walked into the Sanctuary in 2024 (Nepal Tourism Board conservation area data), which is roughly the same volume that reached Everest Base Camp. What separates the two isn't view quality or Himalayan scale. It's the completion rate. Around 88 percent of ABC starters reach the base camp; the EBC completion rate hovers around 74 percent, thanks to Lukla weather cancellations and the altitude wall at Lobuche.
If you're comparing routes for a first Nepal trek with two weeks and moderate fitness, ABC is the one we book most often. The 4,130 m sanctuary sits low enough that altitude is a manageable factor rather than a real risk, the trail starts a 25-minute flight from Kathmandu instead of a Lukla runway coin-flip, and the walk itself is genuinely walkable — 5 to 7 hours a day on stone-step and forest trail, not the 8 to 10 hour high-desert days that Everest or Manaslu ask.
What follows is the ABC trek as we book it from Kathmandu in 2026: the classic 11-day version, the 7-day jeep-road-shortened version that most operators now push, the 15-day Poon Hill combo, the cost line broken open, and the season and pack calls that separate a good ABC trip from a wet-cloud one.
What changed for ABC in 2026
Mandatory licensed guide, still. Nepal's April 2023 rule requiring a government-licensed guide inside every conservation area applies to ABC, and it survived through 2025 and was confirmed in the 2026 permit revisions. Enforcement at the ACAP checkposts at Birethanti and Kimche is strict — the guide's licence number goes on the permit and is checked at the gate. Any operator quoting an ABC trek without a licensed guide in 2026 is setting you up to be turned back. The rule adds USD 250 to USD 350 to an 11-day trek at 2026 rates.
TIMS is gone. The Trekkers' Information Management System card was retired for every Nepal trek in early 2026 as part of the wider permit consolidation. For ABC this cuts USD 20 off the permit stack and shortens the wait at the NTB counter in Pokhara. Any 2026 quote from a Kathmandu agency still listing a TIMS line is a red flag — walk away.
ACAP fee steady. The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit stays at NPR 3,000 (about USD 22) for foreign nationals in 2026. No fee increase was tabled in the annual tourism budget review. The ACAP office at Ghandruk still stamps second-half permits for trekkers who booked the shorter jeep-road version.
The Ghandruk-to-Kimrung Khola jeep road is now the standard shortcut. Extended in late 2024, the road runs from Pokhara through Nayapul and Ghandruk to a rough turnaround near Kimrung Khola at about 1,800 m, roughly 4 hours from Pokhara. It replaces the classic 2-day walk-in from Nayapul with a jeep ride, saving 2 days on the total trek. Around 30 percent of our 2026 ABC bookings now use this shortcut — up from under 10 percent in 2023. What the road does to the trek is real: quicker access, missed rhododendron forest, dusty hillside carving that's less visually pleasant than the old walk-in. The classic 11-day trek is still available and still what we recommend when the traveller has the time.
Pokhara flight capacity added. Buddha Air and Yeti Air added a fourth daily Kathmandu-Pokhara slot in the morning window for autumn 2026 to handle the trekker volume. Fares moved to USD 110 to USD 130 one-way for the 25-minute flight — up from USD 100 to USD 120 in 2025. The road option remains: 6 to 7 hours by tourist bus for NPR 800 to NPR 1,200, or 5 to 6 hours by shared jeep for NPR 1,500 to NPR 2,000. About 65 percent of our 2026 ABC bookings still fly the Kathmandu-Pokhara leg; the road is the fallback when the morning weather cancels the flight.
Deurali avalanche gully has been reengineered. The Nepal Trust for Nature Conservation completed a Nepali-Government-funded rockfall and avalanche protection project between Deurali and MBC in spring 2025 — anchored steel netting and a rerouted trail through the safer eastern side of the gully. Closure days on this section dropped from 12 to 20 per year historically to 3 to 8 days in 2025-2026. Still not zero — a heavy overnight snowfall in November or a late-March storm still closes the section for the day — but the reliability is genuinely improved.
The 2026 cost, broken open
A fully guided 11-day classic ABC trek booked through a Kathmandu agency on a two-person basis lands at USD 950 to USD 1,800 per person, all-inclusive of the arrival and departure Kathmandu nights, Pokhara buffer nights on either end, round-trip Kathmandu-Pokhara flight or road, ACAP permit, licensed guide, porter, teahouse lodging and standard meals. The 7-day jeep-road version runs USD 780 to USD 1,350. The 15-day ABC + Ghorepani-Poon Hill combo runs USD 1,250 to USD 2,100. Solo trekkers add 15 to 20 percent. Groups of four drop to USD 850 to USD 1,500 per head on the classic itinerary.
Where the money actually goes, for an 11-day October trip costed in August 2026:
- ACAP permit — NPR 3,000 (USD 22) per foreign trekker. The only mandatory permit for ABC in 2026. Issued at NTB Kathmandu or Pokhara.
- Round-trip Kathmandu-Pokhara transfer — USD 220 to USD 260 per person by flight (USD 110 to USD 130 one-way x 2), or USD 30 to USD 50 by tourist bus round-trip, or USD 60 to USD 100 by shared jeep round-trip.
- Pokhara transfers to trailhead — NPR 3,000 to NPR 5,000 per person shared jeep to Nayapul (or to Kimrung Khola for the shortened version).
- Licensed guide — USD 25 to USD 30 per day x 8 to 10 trek days = USD 220 to USD 300. Annapurna region guides are the most plentiful and price-competitive in Nepal.
- Porter — USD 20 to USD 22 per day x 8 to 10 trek days = USD 180 to USD 220. One porter carries up to 25 kg for two trekkers.
- Teahouse lodging on trail — Free at most lodges when you take all meals in-house. Add NPR 500 to NPR 1,000 per room per night at Chhomrong for en-suite. Budget USD 30 to USD 60 across the trek.
- Meals on trail — NPR 500 (Ghandruk) to NPR 1,000 (ABC) per dish. A dal bhat at ABC in 2026 runs NPR 900 to NPR 1,000. Budget USD 180 to USD 240 per trekker across the trek.
- Pokhara and Kathmandu hotels — USD 25 to USD 60 per night twin-share for the four total city nights.
- Insurance with helicopter evacuation to 5,000 m — USD 100 to USD 150 for a 12-day trip. World Nomads, Global Rescue, IMG and True Traveller all underwrite this at 5,000 m; ABC's ceiling at 4,130 m sits well inside.
The budget pad — USD 100 to USD 180 for lines that don't make it into any package quote:
- Hot showers above Chhomrong — NPR 200 to NPR 500 (USD 1.50 to USD 4), gas-heated bucket or gas shower. No showers at MBC or ABC in cold months.
- Wifi — NPR 300 to NPR 500 per device per night up to Chhomrong; unreliable above.
- Battery charging — NPR 200 to NPR 400 per hour above Bamboo. A 10,000 mAh power bank fully charged in Pokhara covers most trips.
- Bottled water and snacks — NPR 100 to NPR 400 per litre of bottled water depending on altitude. A Mars bar at ABC runs NPR 350. Bring chlorine tablets and refill from boiled teahouse water (NPR 50 to NPR 120 per litre) to cut the cost in half.
- Tip pool — USD 10 to USD 12 per day per guide, USD 7 to USD 9 per day per porter, paid in a sealed envelope on the last Pokhara night.
Anyone quoting the guided 11-day ABC trek under USD 750 is skipping the licensed guide, running the trek in 5 days without proper acclimatisation, or cutting the porter. Walk away.
The 11-day classic itinerary
The standard out-and-back we quote for autumn 2026:
- Day 1. Arrive Kathmandu (1,400 m). Briefing at the office, gear check, permit prep. Overnight Thamel.
- Day 2. Kathmandu to Pokhara (820 m) by flight (25 minutes) or tourist bus (6 to 7 hours). Afternoon in Pokhara — Fewa lake side, final gear check with the guide, dinner at Or2K or Godfather's, early night.
- Day 3. Pokhara to Nayapul (1,010 m) by shared jeep, 90 minutes. Trek Nayapul to Tirkhedhunga (1,540 m), 4 to 5 hours, 9 km. Gentle valley trail along the Modi Khola for the first section, then the first climb.
- Day 4. Tirkhedhunga to Ghorepani (2,850 m) via the Ulleri climb, 6 to 7 hours, 12 km. The Ulleri stone-step climb — 3,200 steps in 3 to 4 hours — is the hardest single ascent of the whole trek. Rhododendron forest from Banthanti to Ghorepani in April and May. Overnight Ghorepani.
- Day 5. Pre-dawn Poon Hill (3,210 m) sunrise viewpoint, 1 hour up. Descend to Ghorepani for breakfast, then trek to Tadapani (2,660 m), 5 to 6 hours, 10 km. First proper Annapurna South and Machapuchare views on the ridge.
- Day 6. Tadapani to Chhomrong (2,170 m), 5 to 6 hours, 11 km. Descend to the Kimrung Khola bridge, then climb into Chhomrong. Chhomrong is the last village with reliable wifi and hot showers. Restock chocolate and cash here — prices climb hard above this point.
- Day 7. Chhomrong to Bamboo (2,340 m), 5 to 6 hours, 10 km. Steep descent to the Chhomrong Khola, then a long climb up to Sinuwa, then rolling trail through the bamboo forest to Bamboo lodge. Modi Khola on the right, Machapuchare above.
- Day 8. Bamboo to Deurali (3,230 m), 4 to 5 hours, 8 km. The wet-forest section — moss, bamboo, waterfalls, damp lodge nights at Dovan and Himalaya. This section stays slippery well into the dry season; trekking poles help.
- Day 9. Deurali to Machapuchare Base Camp (3,700 m) to Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 m), 5 to 6 hours, 8 km. The avalanche gully section is the first hour above Deurali. Lunch at MBC. Final 2-hour walk to ABC in the afternoon. Overnight at one of the ABC lodges. Sunset on Annapurna I from behind the lodges.
- Day 10. Pre-dawn sunrise at ABC (up at 05:15, walk to the ridge behind the lodges by 06:00, first light on Annapurna South at 06:20 to 06:40 depending on the season). Descend to Bamboo, 6 to 7 hours, 16 km. Long descent day.
- Day 11. Bamboo to Chhomrong to Jhinu Danda (1,780 m), 5 to 6 hours, 10 km. Optional hot spring visit at Jhinu — natural riverside pools at NPR 200 entry, worth it after 8 days on trail.
- Day 12. Jhinu to Siwai jeep road (1,300 m), 2 hours. Jeep to Pokhara, 3 hours. Afternoon in Pokhara, hot shower, dinner at Or2K.
- Day 13. Pokhara to Kathmandu by flight (morning). International departure or extend for cultural time in Kathmandu Durbar Square, Boudha, Pashupatinath.
A one-day buffer in Pokhara after the scheduled return is worth booking. The Pokhara-Kathmandu flight cancels less often than Lukla but the morning slots still get pushed by valley cloud in October and November — one in ten flights delayed by 3 to 6 hours, one in fifty cancelled outright.
The 7-day jeep-road shortcut
For travellers with only 10 to 12 total days including international flights, the 2026 jeep-road-shortened version works:
- Day 1. Arrive Kathmandu, fly to Pokhara same day (or next-day flight for arrivals after 16:00 into KTM).
- Day 2. Pokhara to Kimrung Khola trailhead (1,800 m) by shared jeep, 4 to 5 hours. Trek Kimrung Khola to Chhomrong (2,170 m), 2 to 3 hours, 5 km. Late lunch at Chhomrong.
- Day 3. Chhomrong to Bamboo. Same as Day 7 above.
- Day 4. Bamboo to Deurali. Same as Day 8.
- Day 5. Deurali to MBC to ABC. Same as Day 9.
- Day 6. ABC sunrise, descend to Bamboo.
- Day 7. Bamboo to Chhomrong to Jhinu Danda (jeep road pickup) to Pokhara, 5 to 6 hours walking plus 3 hours jeep.
- Day 8. Pokhara to Kathmandu.
The tradeoff: no Ghorepani, no Poon Hill sunrise, no Tadapani ridge views, no lower rhododendron forest. The jeep road section is dusty, bumpy and less visually pleasant than the walk-in. What you get back: 2 to 3 trail days and USD 80 to USD 150 off the package price. If your holiday cap is 10 days total, this is the version that works.
The 15-day ABC + Poon Hill combo
For travellers with the time, the combined trek is the version we recommend most often to first-time Nepal trekkers who want to see everything the Annapurna region offers in one trip. The route follows the classic 11-day itinerary in full plus the Poon Hill pre-loop:
- Days 1-2. Kathmandu, Pokhara.
- Day 3. Pokhara to Nayapul, Nayapul to Tirkhedhunga.
- Day 4. Tirkhedhunga to Ghorepani via Ulleri.
- Day 5. Poon Hill sunrise, Ghorepani to Tadapani.
- Days 6-12. Tadapani, Chhomrong, Bamboo, Deurali, MBC, ABC, back down.
- Days 13-15. Jhinu, Pokhara, Kathmandu.
Cost: USD 1,250 to USD 2,100 per person on a two-person basis. This is the ABC trek that also includes Ghorepani and Poon Hill, and it's what we book about 15 percent of the time in 2026. Best combined with a spring departure between the third week of March and the second week of May when the rhododendrons flower.
What the Sanctuary actually feels like
Everyone asks about the walk. ABC itself is what makes the walk worth it.
You come up the last two hours from MBC across a flat, rocky glacial floor. The valley narrows and rises, then opens into a natural cirque roughly 800 metres across, ringed on three sides by the walls of Annapurna South, Annapurna I, Gangapurna and Hiunchuli. Machapuchare closes the eastern side, though you can't see the classic fishtail summit from ABC — that view is from Pokhara or from MBC. The base camp lodges (six of them, arranged in a rough loop) sit on a slight rise at the northern edge of the floor. The old memorial plaques — for the climbers who died on Annapurna I including the 2014 avalanche victims — are on the ridge behind the lodges.
The pre-dawn walk from the lodges to the ridge is 200 metres flat. Up at 05:15. Layers on — down jacket, gloves, hat, headtorch. Out the door by 05:45. Standing on the ridge by 06:00. First light on Annapurna South arrives at 06:20 in mid-October, closer to 06:40 in November. The whole sanctuary catches within 10 minutes. The temperature at 06:00 in mid-October runs -6 to -10 C; the wind is minimal in the sanctuary because the peaks block it, which is a genuine relief after the exposed sections lower down.
The amphitheatre effect is the reason to be there. You are standing inside a 360-degree wall of 7,000-metre peaks in a way that no Everest region viewpoint replicates. From EBC, Everest itself isn't visible — you see Nuptse and the Khumbu Icefall. From Kala Patthar, you see Everest as one peak in a wider Himalayan panorama. From ABC, you're inside the mountains. Photograph doesn't reproduce it. The scale takes about 20 minutes of standing to actually register.
Three practical points we drill into every ABC briefing:
- Water at ABC. No treatment for the town water. Boiled water at NPR 60 to NPR 120 per litre from the lodges. Bring chlorine tablets. SteriPen batteries die in the cold pre-dawn.
- Cold pre-dawn. Down jacket rated 650-fill or higher, gloves, warm hat, buff. The pre-dawn temperature is the coldest part of the trip and catches unprepared trekkers off-guard.
- Descent day is long. ABC to Bamboo is 16 km, 6 to 7 hours, almost entirely descent through stone-step sections. Knees suffer. Trekking poles are not optional. Take ibuprofen with breakfast if you're prone to knee issues.
The Poon Hill sunrise, if you take it
The pre-dawn Poon Hill (3,210 m) sunrise viewpoint is one of Nepal's most-photographed frames — Dhaulagiri I (8,167 m) on the far left, then Tukuche, Nilgiri, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Machapuchare, Annapurna III, Annapurna II lined up across the horizon. The viewing tower sits above Ghorepani and reaches it in 45 to 60 minutes of steep hillside stairs.
Up at 04:30, tea in the lodge kitchen by 04:45, walking by 05:00, at the summit by 06:00. First light on Dhaulagiri at 06:15 in mid-October. Some 300 to 500 trekkers on the summit on a peak October morning; it's not the meditative wilderness moment of ABC pre-dawn, but the mountain panorama itself is worth the crowd. Back down to Ghorepani by 08:00 for breakfast, then the trek onward to Tadapani.
The rhododendron windows are 20 March to 10 May (peak second and third weeks of April 2026) for the lower forests below Ghorepani, and 15 May to 5 June for the higher forests above Deurali. If the visual reason to be in the Annapurna region is the flowers, book those windows.
The Deurali avalanche gully
Worth its own note. The trail section between Deurali (3,230 m) and MBC (3,700 m) passes through a narrow gully with steep hillsides on both sides, where snow accumulation and rockfall have historically closed the trail for 12 to 20 days per year. The Nepal Trust for Nature Conservation completed the safety upgrade in spring 2025 — anchored steel netting on the western side and a rerouted trail through the safer eastern gully — and the 2025-2026 closure count dropped to 3 to 8 days.
What this means in practice for a 2026 trek: the section is meaningfully safer than in 2022. Still not zero risk. A heavy overnight snowfall in November or a late-March storm can close the gully for the day. When it closes, trekkers wait at Deurali (there are three lodges) until the guides and porters clear the trail. Insurance evacuation from Deurali is a helicopter lift to Pokhara.
If your date is in the November-to-March window, ask the operator about their contingency plan for a closed gully day. A good operator will have one written down. Our answer is: wait one day at Deurali, then either continue up (if the trail clears) or turn back and reroute via Chhomrong. Refund of the ABC portion runs 40 to 60 percent of the trek cost depending on where the turnaround happens.
Who should book ABC in 2026
We book Annapurna Base Camp for travellers who have:
- 12 to 15 days of clear holiday including buffers for the classic itinerary, or 10 to 12 days for the jeep-road-shortened version
- Moderate fitness — 4 to 6 weeks of hill training before arrival
- Any prior multi-day walking experience (not required but helps)
- Interest in a Himalayan sanctuary experience over a specific summit view
- Comfort with basic teahouse lodging (shared bathrooms, cold rooms above 3,000 m)
- First Nepal trek and 2-week time cap
We steer travellers away from ABC when:
- The trip constraint is 'I want to see Everest' — ABC's scenery is Annapurna-region and doesn't include Everest or the Khumbu
- Total trip time is under 10 days including international flights
- The traveller has already done EBC and wants something notably different (Upper Mustang or Manaslu is the better second-trip call)
- Booking dates fall in monsoon (June through mid-September) — the trail works but the mountain views close under cloud
- Traveller cannot commit to the licensed guide requirement
Send us your prior trekking history when you write in. We'll tell you honestly whether ABC is the right call for the timeline and interests you have.
Booking workflow from Kathmandu
The process we run for a 2026 ABC trek:
1. Inquiry to costed proposal in 24 hours. Include preferred dates, group size, prior trekking history, and whether Poon Hill is a priority. We send a written proposal with itinerary, budget line-by-line and the named guide profile.
2. 20% deposit confirms. The ACAP permit is issued 24 to 48 hours before the trek starts, with the deposit committed so we can lodge the paperwork.
3. Permit documents. Passport scan (valid at least 6 months past return date), Nepal visa scan (issued on arrival or in advance), two passport photos, and proof of insurance with helicopter evacuation to 5,000 m in writing.
4. Pokhara briefing day before the trek. Final gear check with the guide, weather briefing for the Sanctuary window, plan-B walkthrough if the Deurali gully or Poon Hill weather calls for a schedule change.
5. Trek runs. Daily check-in to the office via the guide's mobile or lodge wifi. Weather calls on the Deurali gully section handled by the guide.
6. Return day. Tip envelope handed at the final Pokhara or Jhinu dinner. Hot shower and dinner at Or2K in Pokhara the same evening you exit the trail.
If you're reading this in August 2026 with October dates in mind, write to us this week — the Pokhara flight slots for the peak October window book out 3 to 4 weeks ahead of departure, and the MBC and ABC lodges we hold rooms with are booking out for the last week of October and first week of November right now. Spring 2027 rhododendron-window departures open for booking in September 2026.
ABC is the trek we recommend most often to first-time Nepal trekkers with two weeks and moderate fitness. The 2026 setup — safer Deurali section, cleared TIMS paperwork, the option of the jeep-road shortcut for shorter time-windows — makes the trek genuinely easier to book than it was three years ago. Book the middle three weeks of October or the second and third weeks of April, budget for the buffer day in Pokhara, take the licensed guide seriously. The Sanctuary looks after itself.


